April 2002 76th Issue
Chakri Day
April 6 marks the anniversary of the founding of
the present Chakri Dynasty of which the present ruling monarch, His Majesty
King Bhumibol the Great, is the ninth king. The Chakri Dynasty was founded
by Phra Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke, or Rama I, who was born on March 20, 1737
with the name of Thong Duang and came to the throne on April 6, 1782.
He ruled the country for 28 years.
On Chakri Day, His Majesty King Bhumibol accompanied by members of royal
family presides over a religious ceremony performed to give merit to the
deceased rulers at the Royal Chapel, then pays respects to His Majesty’s
Predecessors at the Royal Pantheon and lays a wreath at the statue of
King Rama I at the Memorial Bridge. On this occasion, the Prime Minister,
Ministers, high ranking officers, students, public and private organizations
and people from all walks of life take part in a wreath-laying ceremony
and make merit for the great kings who dedicated the best part of their
lives for the betterment of their subjects.
Songkran Festival
This year's Songkran Festival is celebrated from
Saturday the 13th April through to Tuesday 16th April, as there is a weekend
in the middle a substitute day is added. At the Songkran Festival the
Thai people pour water over a Buddha image and anybody else within range!.
Thailand celebrates at least three new years. There's the usual year's
end celebrations on 31st December and just like the west there are many
new year's eve parties.Then there's the Chinese new year, which is a 'moveable'
feast.
The Thai new year is the Songkran Festival.Songkran comes from an old
Sanskrit word meaning 'Beginning of the Solar Year'. The summer solstice
in these latitudes falls in April and in ancient times the festival was
probably much like the 'mid summer' festivals which originated from pagan
times in Europe.
It is variously referred to here as 'The Beginning of the Lunar Year',
'The Start of the Returns of the Rains' and of course 'Thai New Year'.
It was most probably an ancient festival which has been adopted by Buddhist
followers.
These days the Thais clean their houses thoroughly prior to the Songkran
celebrations, and on Songkran day merit (offerings) is made at Buddhist
temples. Children show their respect to elders by performing the water
ceremony, by pouring water into the palms of parents and older relatives
hands. In the streets, people splash water on one another. Songkran lasts
for 3 days and is called 'Home Coming Day', as families have a get-together.
The most visible sign is this 'splashing of water' in the streets. It
goes on all day from dawn till dusk. It's usually far more than 'splashing'
and in Hua Hin and Cha Am anyone who ventures out is in for a good soaking,
and a liberal coating of perfumed powder on the face!
It's a good natured day with almost everybody joining in. People fill
the backs of pickup trucks with huge containers of water, buckets, water
cannons, friends and family and join a slow moving procession through
the streets. Even the policemen, in full uniform, gladly submit to a soaking,
the only concession being to keep their mobile phones and other valuables
in a plastic bag!
Over the coming months we will bring you extracts from travellers journals in several parts, continuing this month with 'A Journey Through Laos'
I welcome today with open arms following a day
on a cattle truck packed with livestock that were better behaved than
their owners. Stroll over to the little market to exchange some more currency,
this time with a Lao version of Arthur Daily, a small hunched over old
woman with a carrier bag full of bank notes. Luang Prabang was the site
of the first Lao kingdom (Lan Xang) in 1353; today it is a sleepy town
of 16,000 inhabitants with a handful of historic temples and old French
mansions in a beautiful mountain setting. The Mekong River winds lazily
through the town and locals make their leisurely way around by bicycle.
A very laid back and slow pace of life occurs here, nobody rushes for
anything, and it makes a refreshing change from the hectic city life in
Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. Spend the day doing as the locals do, relaxing
in the shade of a tree by the river.
It is intensely hot here, the coolest place being on the river, so that's
where I'm heading today. I charter a longboat up river to some caves stopping
on the way at a small village where lao lao (local rice whiskey) is brewed
and distilled. The brew is dangerously intoxicating and I can't resist
a bottle at 5,000 kip. Motoring on at an unhurried pace against the current
to the caves of Pak Ou. The two caves in the lower part of a limestone
cliff are crammed with a variety of Buddha images. Further up is another
cave that goes deep into the cliff, my eyes take time to adjust in the
dim, eerie candle light and all noise is swallowed up. 
Kuang Si is a beautiful spot 29km north of Luang Prabang where a wide,
multi-tiered waterfall tumbles over limestone formations into a series
of cool, turquoise-green pools. An excellent opportunity to cool off in
the heat of the midday sun. Nothing much happens at night around here,
many of the locals simply sit around chatting, drinking lao lao and playing
guitar. It is a very simplistic lifestyle that everyone here seems content
with.
Moving on from here I head back down to the river to take a cargo boat
west up the Mekong towards the Thai border. The mighty river originates
in Tibet and travels through seven countries to the South China Sea at
the Mekong Delta, Vietnam. It provides fertile floodplains for agriculture
and is the main transport artery through Laos. Our boat has a cargo of
motorcycles bound for the northern provinces and the crew are friendly
and accommodating. There are only nine or so passengers on the boat, which
will take us halfway to the border in two days. Moorings are released
and the long wooden vessel drifts slowly into the centre and begins chugging
its way upriver. The scenery is wild countryside, steep valley sides and
rugged mountains, not many people live up here. Water buffalo wallow in
the shallows, cooling themselves from the blistering heat. Humble villages
can be seen on the banks where women and children wash and play in the
river and fishermen go about their days hunting.
Travel
for around eight hours through the untamed valleys of northern Laos until
the light gets too dim to navigate by. The skipper moors up on the bank
where a low expanse of flat land is accessible, although there is nothing
else in sight. After being told in the navigation office back in Luang
Prabang that we would stop overnight at a village I didn't think to bring
any food supplies. Now stuck on the side of a river, miles away from civilisation,
with no food or water and all the locals walking off into the distance
I begin to wonder whether this was such a good idea. Decide to follow
them and find out what is going on. They are going fishing in a small
pond just over the rise; it appears we are living off the land tonight.
After an hour of incomprehensible shouting, wading neck deep in mud and
water, and unfurling fishing nets by the light of the moon we have five
tiny silver fish that barely fill a palm. Back onboard I am eternally
grateful that the Lao way of dining involves sharing out everything with
all those present. Dine on a local speciality of khao niaw and som-tam
(sticky rice and spicy green papaya salad).
The crew are up and around before sun up, I freshen myself with a bucket
of Mekong water on my head. Breakfast is khao niaw and jeun paa (sticky
rice and the fish we caught last night), the glutinous rice is eaten with
everything here. It is eaten with the hands by grabbing a small fistful
from the woven container that sits on the table (or on the deck in our
case), then rolled into a ball, the rice is dipped into the various dishes.
A simple but very tasty and filling meal. Stop a little further up river
where some people are getting off, local children come running up to the
boat asking (with their best imitations) for pens, I give them what I
have. One of the girls has a dried, flattened, crispy fried rat on a stick,
glad I have already eaten. Stop again a little later to offload the motorbikes
before we arrive at Pakbeng early in the afternoon. This is our halfway
point where the slow boats terminate due to lower water levels further
upriver. Say my goodbyes to the crew who have become my friends over the
past two days and walk into the village to look for somewhere to stay.
Pakbeng is a little one street village consisting of a cluster of houses,
guesthouses, food vendors and a market. It is a peaceful, amiable place
that I could get used to, however there is very little to do here apart
from relax in true Laotian fashion. Noisy speedboats shatter the tranquillity
as they buzz up and down the river ferrying passengers. I am determined
not to get on one of these for the final leg of my journey.
Down at the riverside this morning people are loading up but I fail to
get any sense out of any of them with regards to boats going upriver.
Finally I am told that there are no boats going that way today so settle
back for another lazy day by the river. Meet up with some of the crew
from the boat I came in on and join them for a few rounds of lao lao trying
my best to converse in the Thai that I have learnt as the two languages
are very similar. Stagger off to bed in the small hours of the morning
nursing a hangover already.
I am told again that there are no boats to the border today due to lack
of passengers. Decide to speak to the boat owners myself, as the woman
in the ticket office just doesn't feel like selling tickets today. Rally
together a few people going the same way and charter a longboat upriver
for 25,000 kip per head. Travelling a little faster this time through
more rugged countryside stopping for a provincial passport check about
halfway. The final section of the journey passes with Thailand on our
left and Laos on the right. Children playing in the shallows wave enthusiastically
as we go by. It is a stark contrast between the concrete houses, cars
and electricity pylons on the Thai side and Laos' wooden huts, wilderness
forests and tribal village people. The economical disparity is plain to
see here. The sun drops low in the sky casting an orange tinge across
the waters of the Mekong River. Arrive after dark and trek into town to
book into an old Chinese style hotel.
Huay Xai is a bustling riverside town whose main commercial district centres
on the vehicle and passenger ferry landings for boats to Chiang Khong
in Thailand. There is little of any real interest here, however the view
from the vintage 1880 temple is quite impressive. Against the odds I have
managed to travel upriver from Luang Prabang to the border, and looking
back thoroughly enjoyed the boat trips. Spend my last few thousand kip
and investigate catching a boat across the river and into northern Thailand
tomorrow.
It has taken a while to adjust to but I am now at ease with the slow pace
of Laotian life. Travel can be frustrating at times but when you get used
to the idea that nothing happens fast and things that take hours elsewhere
can take days in Laos it is a delightful country to be in. The natural
beauty of Laos is breathtaking, from the rugged mountain peaks, crystal
waterfalls, and untamed river valleys to the rustic villages and people
of the hill tribes. There is something new and unanticipated to been seen
everyday here, I only hope that Laos does not become spoiled by tourism
and that it retains its laid-back culture that is so enchanting.
Article and photography by Martin Young (with thanks to Alan Crowe and Lonely Planet Publications). Next month 'A Glimpse into Cambodia'
Magnificent Mango
It's mango season - forget your diet and enjoy this
magnificent fruit. While the month of April ushers in the sometimes oppressive
heat and humidity of the Thai hot season, one compensation is that it
is the beginning of the Thai mango season. The mango, known as mamuang
in Thai, is one of Thailand's premier tropical fruits, and Thailand produces
some of the most delicious mangoes in the world. Ripe mangoes are eaten
for dessert while pickles and chutney are prepared from unripe fruit.
One of the most popular ways to enjoy ripe mangoes is with sticky rice
and coconut milk, as pictured - magnificent!
Dog Rescue News
Jean Claude and wife Christine wish to thank everyone
who has so generously donated to their cause of giving Hua Hin's street
dogs the chance of a happier life.
A lot has happened in a very short time since the couple started their
crusade, they have made the national English language press in both the
Bangkok Post
and The Nation, they have featured in the Thai press and in the middle
of March they were interviewed at the Sofitel Central Hotel and at the
centre for Channel 3 TV. But to cap it all was Royal recognition for their
work, when a member of the Royal family accommpanied the provincial governor
to the Rescue Centre. It seems all the VIP guests were impressed with
what they saw. Immediate vetinary assistance was forthcoming. The number
of adult and puppy dogs at the centre is growing rapidly so financial
assistance is needed more than ever. The couple have an excellent place
in mind, which can shelter many more dogs. Please look out for the collection
boxes at Golden Place, Dr. Sumet's, Palm Hills, Berny's Inn and many other
places around the town Christine, Jean Claude and their vet wish to stress
how important sterilisation for Hua Hin's dogs is.
More details from 032 513 664 (English, French) 032 531 078 (Thai) or
email: jeanclaudebouille@hotmail.com
Your continued support is much appreciated.
Favourite Holiday Dishes from Tantawan's Kitchen - Khao Pat
Ingredients:
200g Cleaned, boned and skinned chicken
Two Eggs
One Onion
Two Spring onions
One Tomato (skinned)
Three Garlic cloves
Pinch Sugar
Pinch Salt
Splash Maggi sauce
Bowl Rice
Warm a pan or wok with a little oil, put in the crushed garlic, and cook on a low gas with the sliced onion and bite size pieces of chicken. Wait for the chicken to brown slightly then add one egg and mix with the ingredients already in the wok.
Raise the heat a little and add the previously boiled rice, splash in some Maggi sauce and slide one of the sliced spring onions.
Serve with a fried egg on top, garnish with spring onion and tomato.
Features
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