May 2002 77th Issue

From grubs to grasshoppers ... they all taste like chicken

I was watching a lady from northeastern part of Thailand standing on the corner at the crowded Red Cross market last month, offering different fried creatures: water bugs, worms, and grasshoppers from a push cart.
You can see why many people shriek when it comes to eating bugs, even though in Thai cuisine, water bugs are commonly part of certain chili sauces, and are not looked upon as a pest or bug. Besides, they are ground up and unrecognizable; just part of a dish that Thai's have eaten all their lives.
The worms and grasshoppers are different! I have seen people eat them on TV in survival specials. Here was a chance to see if they taste like chicken. I realized that if I could eat water bugs, other insects are not too far from it. How arbitrary is it to discriminate against other types of insects!
The market stall was doing brisk business, as a guy came by and bought some bugs. She sprayed a thin brown sauce on top and handed the bag to him. I thought, 'hey, people are really buying and eating this stuff.' So I approached her cart and asked her what she had. She explained:
Water bugs, I already knew that one. It was deep fried and sprayed with some sauce. It was probably crunchy and creamy with a distinct scent of water bug. I didn't mind this one and thought that I would certainly get some.

Next was called rod fai duan or express train. Hmm…doesn't sound bad. The express train is a worm that eats bamboo. OK. The worm sounded clean, only ate bamboo. OK, I'd try this.
This fat oval bug with visible sections looked too much like a bad bug, something out of a horror movie. What is it? She said that it was cocoon of a silkworm after they unraveled the silk. All right. Silk worms eat mulberry leaves. That's not too gross, just a silk worm. I can handle that.
The grasshopper looked like a brown grasshopper with all parts intact.
While deciding what to get to experiment on, and broaden my knowledge of bugs, an old man came by and snatched all the water bugs that she had. Geez, my safety bugs were gone. What to do? So I quickly told the lady I wanted a little bit of every thing. She said 20 baht a ladle. OK, a ladle full of everything.
She was so generous with her scoop that I had to tell her that we're new to the bugs and please go easy on us. "No need to be so generous, maybe you have some customers that really like these things." She sprayed our bugs with the sauce. I asked her what is the sauce. She smiled and simply replied, 'secret sauce'.
Now it was time. I chose the bamboo worm first because it was the least threatening. To my surprise, it tasted great. It was nutty and crunchy. There were no icky taste or unpleasant smell or feeling in your mouth. I had been afraid that it would be creamy (like I'd always imagined bugs in the past), but it was dry. Well, if the bamboo worm wasn't so bad, let's try another worm, the silk worm. It was crunchy and nuttier than the 'express train'. We saved the best for last, the grasshopper. I closed my eyes and dropped one in my mouth. If I didn't know what it was, it would have to say it was the fried tiny little fish that you get on pizzas. For the Brits out there, if you remember Bovil crisps, well the bugs taste like that!

Over the coming months we will bring you extracts from travellers journals in several parts, starting this month with 'A Glimpse into Cambodia'

Leaving the Thai border town of Aranyaprathet the old local bus takes me to the checkpoint border crossing into Cambodia a few kilometres away. It is my fifth country and the one which I feel the most trepidation about entering. All the relative comforts of travelling in unconstrained countries such as Thailand and Malaysia are left behind as we arrive at the border which has only been open to foreigners for a few months. A huge market on the Thai side offers all manner of fare from across the border from dried fruits to hanging mobiles constructed from drinks cans. People pulling huge carts snake out in a long slow line originating from one corner, this I determine to be the immigration checkpoint. Walking against the flow I proceed to the immigration office for another stamp in the passport.

Cambodia or Kampuchea as its known locally is still recovering from two decades of warfare and violence including almost four years of rule by the genocidal Khmer Rouge, who killed as many as two million of Cambodia's seven million people and systematically sought to obliterate the country's pre-revolutionary culture. For 90 years, from 1863, the French controlled Cambodia as an adjunct to their colonial interests in Vietnam. Independence was declared in 1953 and for 15 years King Sihanouk dominated Cambodian politics. From 1969 Cambodia was drawn into the Vietnam conflict and the King was overthrown after many years of erratic and repressive policies. The USA secretly commenced carpet-bombing suspected Communist base camps in Cambodia and, shortly after the 1970 coup, American and South Vietnamese forces invaded the country to root out Vietnamese Communist forces. They failed, and pushed Cambodia's indigenous rebels, the Khmer Rouge, into the country's interior where savage fighting broke out. The capital Phnom Penh fell to the K.R. on April 17th 1975. Upon taking the capital the Khmer Rouge, under the leader Pol Pot, implemented one of the most radical, brutal restructuring of a society ever attempted. Its goal was the transformation of Cambodia into a Maoist, peasant- dominated, agrarian cooperative.
During the next four years, hundreds of thousands of Cambodians, including the vast majority of the country's educated people, were relocated into the countryside, tortured to death or executed. Thousands of people were branded as 'parasites' and systematically killed solely because they spoke a foreign language or wore spectacles. Hundreds of thousands more died of mistreatment, malnourishment and disease. As many as two million Cambodians died between 1975 and 1979 as the result of the policies of the Khmer Rouge government.
At the end of 1978 Vietnam invaded Cambodia and overthrew the K.R. who fled westward to the jungles on both sides of the border with Thailand. They maintained a guerrilla war throughout the 1980s, armed and financed by China and Thailand (and with indirect US support), against the Vietnamese backed government in Phnom Penh. In mid-1993 the UN administered elections in Cambodia and a constitution was drawn up and passed. The present government is a coalition of the United Front for an Independent, Neutral and Free Cambodia (FUNCINPEC). The Khmer Rouge are still a lingering problem occupying some remotes areas of the country including until very recently the border town of Poipet where I have just arrived.
The first thing I notice is how much poorer Cambodia is in comparison to Thailand, people pull carts and use water buffalo as opposed to their motorised Thai neighbours on mopeds. I set about negotiating a price for transport to Siem Reap around 120km away. When a large enough group of travellers have crossed the border they attempt to cram 15 people and all their gear in the back of a pickup truck for 8 dollars a head. The official currency in Cambodia is the riel but the US dollar is a close second, the exchange works out to be about 3000r to the dollar, some places also accept Thai Baht which just adds to the confusion. We pull out of Poipet fully loaded and motor on roads a lot better than I expected past paddy fields and tiny ramshackle villages, it is a very rural way of life out here. The first leg of my journey takes 2 hours to cover 49km to the market town of Sisophon. As soon as the locals spot white faces in the truck, hoards of children are sent over to sell all manner of goods. 'Baguettes one dollar, chewing gum one dollar, Pepsi one dollar, I sing a song for you, one dollar'. They are the most persistent vendors I have ever come across. An hour and a half later and after swapping trucks twice we are finally on the move again, a quick lap around the block and back into the market again, nothing happens fast here. Heading east under a punishing tropical sun we are stopped by the police who demand bribes, all part of the corruption that is just accepted out here, after all you don't argue with a man carrying an AK-47.
The road begins to deteriorate into nothing more than a series of variously sized holes and lumps and our progress slows. The scenery is primeval, water buffalo pulling primitive ploughs, old women doubled over in rice fields knee deep in muddy water, naked children running in and out of rickety wooden houses. I have now lost all feeling in my backside after three hours of sheer pain, I am told that its only 56km to Siem Reap, we have covered around 60. Stop at a small river where the bridge is down halting our passage. A skinny, dark skinned old man appears and balances two wooden beams across the broken section before charging us 2000r to cross. I don't know what surprises me most, the old mans shrewd thinking or our drivers nonchalant attempt to drive a fully laden pickup over two thin wooden planks. Stop again soon for moments rest-bite, which attracts the attention of every child in the vicinity, as an entire school empties to look at the strange white people. The Khmer people are very friendly and satisfy their curiosity with broad smiles on their faces and an open hand of friendship.

Another two hours of pain and I'm told that we have 56km to go, I think its the only number he knows in English. Rain arrives late in the day and we fight with the tarpaulin but fail to prevent a soaking. Arrive in Siem Reap after dark, numb, wet and in pain after nine gruelling hours on one of Cambodia's better roads. Stay at the first guesthouse we're taken to as all I feel like doing now is sleeping.
Tourism is a very recent industry in Cambodia and prices appear to be a little higher than those in its neighbours Laos and Thailand. However Thailand has had tourists for 30 years longer than Cambodia and therefore has a very stable tourism income. Another problem facing Cambodia, especially here in the west, is uncleared ordinance. Travel in a country with 365,000 acres of undetonated landmines, mortars and bombs can be hazardous if precautions are not taken. In Vietnam most of this sort of stuff is 15 or more years old, but in Cambodia it may have landed or been laid as recently as the previous night. It is for this reason that we are not permitted to visit the Temples of Angkor without a guide.

Angkor Wat (Temple of Angkor) is Cambodia's primary tourist attraction and the only reason most people come to Siem Reap. My guide is a friendly local who speaks little English so conversation is limited as my Khmer extends only to 'hello' and 'thank you'. We head off on his motorbike early in the morning to the temples 6km north of Siem Reap. Not being a great temple freak I opt for the $20 one day pass as opposed to the three day pass at $45. My guide drops me at Angkor Wat first. The entire area covers about 310 square kilometres with around a thousand temples so it will be impossible to see it all in a day. This is the most impressive construction I have ever seen with its soaring towers three storeys high and extraordinary bas-reliefs, it is considered to be one of the most inspired and spectacular monuments ever conceived by the human mind. Around 900 years old and covered in intricate carvings the place has a very serene ambience, I can almost visualise what life might have been like back in the 12th century, old market stalls, animals roaming around, people going about their daily business, the place is amazing. Stretching around the outside of the temple complex is an 800 metre long series of remarkable bas-reliefs depicting battles that occurred in ancient times.

Article and Photography by Martin Young, continued next month.

Dog Rescue News

Member cards are now being issued at 200 baht per month to help with the feeding and medication for the dogs in Christine and Jean Claude's charge.
They are now full to capacity and can't accept any more dogs.
Hua Hin Golf Society who generously donate to the Phetchaburi Special School each year will be helping the Dog Rescue.
Jean Claude said that if people wish to donate dog food or biscuits instead of cash he is very happy to accept.
More details on 032 513 664 (English / French) or 032 531 078 (Thai) or email: jeanclaudebouille@hotmail.com

Spotted relaxing at Dusit Resort and Polo Club, Cha-Am/Hua Hin

Spotted relaxing at Dusit Resort and Polo Club recently were Swedish sporting legends Tomas Brolin and Ingemar Stenmark. Tomas Brolin had a very successful football career, playing for Sweden in the World Cup as well as stints with English Premier Division sides such as Leeds. Ingemar Stenmark was Olympic and World Champion at skiing.
They are pictured with their girlfriends enjoying an evening cocktail.

Jolie Movie

Location filming on a romantic adventure movie starring Angelina Jolie has started in northern Thailand.
``Beyond Borders,'' about idealistic relief workers, is being directed by Martin Campbell, whose previous films include ``GoldenEye'' and ``Vertical Limit.'' Clive Owen, who most recently appeared in ``Gosford Park,'' plays Jolie's love interest.
Co-producer Lloyd Phillips said Wednesday that about five weeks of shooting in Thailand will wrap up main filming on the movie, which began production in December. Previous shooting was done in Namibia, standing in for Ethiopia, and Montreal, standing in for London and Chechnya.
The film's Thai locations will stand in for Cambodia, the site of an extended humanitarian crisis throughout the 1980s as it struggled to recover from the devastating rule of the communist Khmer Rouge.
Phillips said he expects the film to be released around Christmas.
The story, which covers a 10-year period, takes its protagonists from London to Ethiopia to Cambodia and Chechnya. Jolie plays a married American socialite in London who falls in loves with an idealistic doctor played by Owen.
In real life, Jolie serves as a goodwill ambassador for the U.N. High Commissioner for Refugees and has visited relief camps in Cambodia, Pakistan and Africa. The star of ``Lara Croft: Tomb Raider'' and her husband, actor Billy Bob Thornton, recently adopted a Cambodian infant.

Using the Internet to learn almost anything
Web sites are not the only source

by Marc Holt
The internet originally started out as a backup communications system for the US military in case of a nuclear war. The idea was to build a decentralized computerized system that would spread data over a wide area. A nuclear hit on one part would not affect the ability of the rest of the system to provide needed information. From that strange beginning, we now have a worldwide system that enables anyone to view information from anywhere else in the world.
Since the Internet opened for public access we have seen websites develop and grow until we have in just a few short years a system that has revolutionized how we communicate and learn. At the dawn of the Internet as we know it (about 3 or 4 years ago) many of the websites we saw were personal, educational or technical. As technology developed and business people saw the potential we started seeing company websites, shopping malls, and specialized directories open up, to name a few.
Some of these websites have gone on to become hugely successful, like Amazon.com, which has thousands of visitors a day. Others have failed and gone the way of the Dodo. At best, they stay on the Internet but attract only a few visitors per year. Many of the successful websites achieved that success because they know that web surfers will return to their website often if they offer free and useful information. That's what the Internet is all about. If your website offers interesting information that is updated regularly, visitors are much more likely to return.
These days, it is possible to find out about almost anything you need to know. It's all there. The trick is knowing where and how to find it.
FINDING INFORMATION
To find specific information you can use a search engine like Alta-Vista.com, Lycos.com, Hotbot.com, and so on. Just enter a key word or phrase and you will be presented with a wide choice of websites that 'might' contain the information you are looking for. Successfully finding what you want on a search engine depends largely on the key words or phrases you use to search. You may have to experiment until you find a combination of key words or phrases that offer you the best choice of websites to select from.
Directories are a better way to find information. Yahoo.com is the most popular. Directories list their information under categories. So, if you are looking for products to buy, you would look under the 'business' or perhaps 'leisure' categories, depending on the product.
In addition, directories have a search engine you can use to search for specific key words. For example, if you want to find companies that export toys from Thailand, just enter 'exporters toys Thailand' in the search field and you will be presented with a list of possible categories where you can find what you are looking for.
DISCUSSION GROUPS
But the Internet is not just about search engines and directories. There are lots of other ways to learn from the Internet. One of the best ways is to subscribe to a discussion group about a topic you are interested in. If you want to know how to market your products or services on the Internet, one of the best discussion groups is the MSN bCentral Daily Digest (http://digest.linkexchange.com) It's free to subscribe to the digest. Just send an email to msnledigest-subscribe@listbot.com and type SUBSCRIBE in the Subject field.
Hundreds of thousands of marketing professionals, webmasters and users all over the world subscribe to this discussion group. Topics under discussion cover a wide range, including: How small websites can compete with the big companies; Tips on getting your website registered at or near the top of the search engines; Marketing with a limited budget; Hosting your website on a free server Vs having your own domain name and paid-for server; and so on. New topics are introduced all the time, and discussion is lively and always interesting. The digest is a valuable information resource for professionals and non-professionals alike.
NEWSLETTERS
Then there are literally thousands of free e-Newsletters. These are sent out regularly to people who subscribe. They usually contain articles written by experts in their fields. Some newsletters I subscribe to include: Add-Me Newsletter (Subscribe at: http://www.addme.com/list.htm); InternetDay (Subscribe at http://www.Internetday.com); Killer Tactics Journal (http://foreverweb.com/); e-Boz! Newsletter (Subscribe by sending a blank email to: "eboz@oaknetpub.com" with SUBSCRIBE in the body of the email); and e-Burst!, where you will find an article from me each month at http://www.burstmedia.com.
Most of these newsletters I subscribe to are aimed at webmasters and marketing professionals. But there are lots more out there on almost any other topic you can think of. Use a search engine to find the topic you are interested in and visit the websites listed in the search engine results. They will invite you to subscribe to their newsletter and provide a subscription form. Make sure that they tell you they don't sell your email address to mailing lists. Most websites these days offering a newsletter have a Privacy Statement to tell you how they protect your privacy. Avoid those that don't.
CHILDREN
Children are finding the Internet a valuable resource in their education too. There are lots of websites devoted to children, including http://www.childfun.com.This website includes information on parenting, games, puzzles and fun for kids all ages, a chat room where you can talk to other kids or parents, on-line shopping for children's products, and even message boards. To find more children's websites, use your search engine and look for key words like: 'kids, children, children's games' etc.
Another way to find websites with the information you are looking for is to visit a website on a related topic and see if they offer a Links page. Check their list of links to find websites that have more information you can use.
All it takes to access this almost unlimited fund of information is an Internet account and a web browser like Netscape, Opera or Internet Explorer. If you haven't tried it yet, do it now. You'll be surprised at what you can find out there.
Reprinted by kind permission of the auther Marc Holt
marc@holtww.com

Favourite Holiday Dishes from Tantawan's Kitchen - Massaman Gai

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